Farmhouse Dining Table with Epoxy Inlays Using Reclaimed Barnwood
This week I built a modern style farmhouse dining table with epoxy resin inlays a Parsons table to be more accurate. A Parsons table features legs pushed out to the ends and flush with the top and was designed almost a hundred years ago. To be a basic lasting design whether left unfinished She then gold or in this case inlaid epoxy resin and reclaimed wood. This farmhouse dining table is built from a mixture of red and white barn wood oak that is likely 50 to 100 years old. My friends at vintage reclaimed lumber in Oklahoma City provided all the wood for this project, and they are the sponsors of this video. I pick out my boards. You can see the issues working with wood like this. None of these boards were straight, and many of them were cupped or twisted for being such a simple design. This was one of the most challenging projects I’ve ever Completed every step along the way was a learning experience, and I had a few setbacks along the way. The legs are made from this reclaimed beam.
That was almost 15 feet long we brought the beam into the shop to mill the legs, and the first step was to cut them down to 32 inch long sections. The beam was about 11 to 12 inches wide in about five and a half inches tall, and as you see, I had to flip the beam over and Make this cut in two passes Using this giant medieval Tanna whit’s bandsaw. I resaw the leg blanks in half, and this is where I Encountered my first hiccup. The blade was deflecting and preventing me from getting straight cuts. Now I managed to get the leg blanks greased on the bandsaw. But that left a lot of cleanup work to be done to get them squared up. Next, I ran the leg blanks through the jointer to get to flat and square surfaces. Then I had to use this 14-inch rip blade to cut the legs to their final width a four and a quarter inches square Back in my shop. I laid out all the boards for the table top and measured out how much good material I had in each one I ended up with an alternating pattern of red and white oak boards for the tabletop. And then I could cut these boards down to a rough length of 90 inches long. This farmhouse dining table is going to be 7 feet long, and this gives me a bit of wiggle room before cutting the tabletop to its final length. I Ran all these boards to my jointer to get a flat edge, and then I cut them down to their last width of 5 inches over on the table saw. I Started with the five boards. That will make up the extended middle portion of the table and I’m using Dominoes to help with the alignment. Since the boards are a little bit warped Probably more than I needed, but it helped pull these boards back into alignment. I added dominoes and glue to put these two boards together. Now, as a bit of a task to get these two boards to line up. But with a little bit of coaxing and an excellent wooden mallet, I was able to make it work. Once the glue a draw I took the boards out of the clamps and I use my Stanley number 5 Jack plane to smooth. The bottom and then I skip playing the boards to help flatten the top without losing too much of that character of the wood.
I Repeated this process for the remaining boards and then glued up all 5 planks. That make up the long section of the tabletop again Using dominoes for alignment and to help pull everything together as straight as I could get it with a bit more coaxing I got the whole top in the clamps and added some call boards wrapped and packing tape to the end to prevent further bowing Once the top had dried I flipped it over on my workbench and shimmed up the high spots Now the idea here is to use a router sled to flatten the bottom as much as possible. Then I could flip the whole thing over and hit the top of the table. Only removing the high spots and leaving all the character With the longer section of the tabletop done now I could add the two shorter boards to the ends that the legs will sit flush against I Sanded them down and use the legs to mark the exact width. They need to be and then rip them over on my table saw. I Clamp the legs flush with the end of the table and use the leg on the other end to mark their length, which I cut over on the miter saw. I Had a Domino’s to these boards and attached them to the longer portion of the table with some glue and a little bit of brute force clamping pressure to pull everything into alignment. I Came back with my jack plane and also this small block plane to flush up this board and the seam to the rest of the tabletop. Moving on to the legs, the next step was to hit them with a belt sander and an 80 grit belt to remove most of The grit built up over the last 60 or so years. Once that was done it was time to start pouring the epoxy resin inlays. I started with the farmhouse dining table top, and I used aluminum tape here to short the bottom of the table first. This is my first time to use this East Coast resin, and I had excellent results. I mixed equal parts resin and hardener and made sure it was thoroughly mixed before I added the blue-green and white pearl pigments to get the depth of color. I was going for and now it was time to pour as you can see here. My first pour in the table top was a bit sloppy, and the uneven surface caused it to spread out a little bit. I got a bit more efficient with my pours, but I still had a lot of overflows that I had to address later I also mixed some sawdust into a batch of epoxy resin and filled any of the small gaps with boards connected The legs had several large cracks that I decided to backfill with this bondo fiberglass.
Resin instated of epoxy for Farmhouse dining table
Resin It’s much cheaper than the two-part epoxy resin. I was using, but in hindsight, I think I would have been better off Just filling everything with the same pigmented resin. This caused some issues of having the chip away some of this resin that was showing through the pigmented resin. Later on and Once at a draw, I came back with the colored epoxy and filled it in over the bondo. The resin I wanted to leave some of the checks for aesthetic reasons, but some of the bigger cracks had to be addressed for stability. Also, a quick tip doesn’t use regular packing tape as I did here. It did not contain the epoxy resin well at all; I quickly switched back. So using the aluminum tape also these epoxy pours took several weeks to complete. I had multiple surfaces to fill and often. I would come back after the epoxy dried to find that it just flowed down into some unseen crack. After pouring the epoxy, I used the heat gun to pop any air bubbles, and then I came back to remove the over-pour with a chisel after it dried. I also sanded down the resin, and it was here that I realized the sanding was heating the resin and making it easier to Chisel away I tried using a heat gun, and this worked great This made my epoxy over pore removal go much faster and have a much cleaner result.
I repeated this whole process all over again on the knots and cracks in the wood that I used for the aprons and once all these numerous epoxy resin pores were done. I sanded the resin first was 600 grit sandpaper then 1200 grit and finally 2,000 grit to get the shine that I was looking. For now, to begin assembling the farmhouse dining tables, and this is where I ran into a lot of issues. I use the sheet of plywood on the Flattest portion of my shop to have a good surface of reference to fit at the legs. I clamp the legs in place added a few weights to keep the table from blowing up and then Mark the alignment of the legs. The aprons were cut oversized, and I use this setup to mark out their exact length of roughly 25 inches. I cut them to fit on the miter saw and then repeated this process for the other three aprons. I came up with these 45-degree rest and a drilling jig the mortise had a slot for diagonal braces to hold the legs of the apron and Spoiler it did not work at all the idea was that shizz allowed these mortises.
Where a 45-degree angle that was going to hold the aprons could rest up against the leg and Then I would drill a lag bolt in through the leg to secure everything. Having the legs held on only by a single bolt made them far too shaky, and I had to remake the whole apron structure because I had already glued the battens in place. So back to the drawing board, I had to make all new aprons and rethink their connection to the legs again. I cut them to fit against the legs. But this time I marked out with the apron made it up to the legs. I Cut in two dominoes to the end of each apron and matching dominoes, on the legs themselves. Now I could dry fit the aprons and add the sinner stretcher and battens seen here also using dominoes. I took the whole apron assembly apart and then reassembled it piece by piece. This time was adding glue the way I clamped up the table base without the tabletop in place cause some significant issues.
I’ll explain more in a bit. But first, you see me putting the tabletop in place and then marking out where I need to cut it flush with the legs. Which I then did with my tracks off I added some dominoes to the aprons that are going to allow me to attach the tabletop with some tabletop buttons and Finally, I can move on to the finish. I use this general finish’s satin water-based topcoat. It’s my first time to use this finish, and I’m happy with the results. I put four coats on I put in all the tabletop buttons and attached the tabletop, and that’s when I discovered some issues with the fit. When I clamped up the Apron structure to the legs, the uneven clamping pressure and the fact that none of the reclaimed wood is perfectly straight. Managed to pull the base out of alignment, and this left me with these gaps, and this table did not meet my standards, This whole time, I was building a second table in the background. I learned from those mistakes in the first table fix them on the second table, and I couldn’t be more pleased with the results.
How to make a basic wood box and why
As found on Youtube
It’s applause-worthy how Jonny begins with the project by working up the legs using a 15-foot beam which he cuts into two long pieces, cutting them further to form four legs for the table. As the wood was all imperfect when it comes to the shape, a jointer works wonders to straighten it out cut the legs with a 14-inch rip blade.
Speaking of the table body, Jonny employs a combination of red and white oak boards to make a 7-foot Parson’s table. He cuts the boards to fit the size requirements and runs them through the jointer, setting the longer boards in the middle, while aligning the warped pieces together with the help of dominoes. He drills nubs into the planks for the dominoes before he adheres the pieces together and hammers them in.
Once the middle section is smoothed out by sanding it, he repeats the step for the remaining pieces of the table. The next step is to pull all the sections together with clamps and dominoes to avoid the wood from bending.
Jonny props up the warped spots with glue and user a router sled to level things down. Next, he needs to add the pieces of wood that join the table legs to the table. He also uses a sander to smoothen the unsightly stumps on the legs.
DIY Farmhouse Dining Table w/ Epoxy Inlays Using Reclaimed Barnwood
Now comes the interesting part where he begins the epoxy inlays. He applies aluminum tape to avoid any spills, further mixing and pouring some blue-green epoxy resin over the crevices and cracks of the table. He mixes some sawdust with epoxy resin, pouring it between the planks. For the legs, Jonny goes for a blend of fiberglass resin and Bondo filler before filling the legs in with the blue-green epoxy blend, further drying it with a hot air gun.
He also uses the heat gun over the spillover epoxy to make it easier to chisel it away. Some sanding comes into play yet again, wherein he uses 600-grit sandpaper, further advancing to 1,200 grit and 2,000-grit paper.
Jonny reworks the whole apron structure with the help of dominoes and some glue to make it stronger. Although dominoes are not as permanent as compared to metal batons and bolts, they keep the legs and table together and prevent the structure from wobbling.
Any excess bits of wood are cut off before going for a final finish to the structure. The fact that Jonny witnessed large gaps between the different pieces after connecting the body to the tabletop due to the uneven clamping pressure and imperfect pieces also brings out some tips and tricks for your help as he uses it all as a reference to build a second table.
If you want to get your hands on the detailed visual instructions and work up the gorgeous farmhouse table all by yourself, all it takes is to head to the tutorial right away!
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DIY Barn Wood Table–From Tobacco Barn to Dining Table
Remember those DIY barn wood picture frames from a couple weeks ago? Well, there’s more where that barn came from! (Get it?? More barn…more wood…more projects??) So today, I’m showing you how to turn this old tobacco barn wood into this beautiful DIY barn wood table and bench.
But first, a little back story: A friend of ours from college contacted me several months ago asking if I could use some of his family’s barn wood and build him and his wife a new dining table. I was a little hesitant because this wood and this barn was pretty sentimental to the family. I didn’t want to be the one to screw it up haha.
They decided to tear this old barn down after many years of use. My friend’s great grandfather taught his father how to climb up the stairs when he was just a very yound kid. My friend’s father also cured his first crop of tobacco in that barn when he was only 15 years old! So finally, after many years of helping put food on that family’s table, it’s become the table they can sit together and enjoy that food from.
So, if you are ready to see how it was done, then let’s get to it.
This post contains affiliate links. See disclosure policy for details.
For this DIY barn wood table build, I used:
Gorilla Wood Glue
Gorilla Glue Epoxy
First, I picked out the lumber for each section of the DIY barn wood table
Several months ago, we took a trip with our friends to the barn to take a look at what wood would be salvageable and what they would need for the table. Then, after they tore the barn down, we took a trip again to pick through all the lumber and get the best boards. We got way more than we needed to build the table just so I would have plenty of extra in case I ran into a not so great board…which I did…multiple times.
I dug through all the boards on the trailer and separated the ones to be used for the table and bench tops (they were thinner and didn’t have any huge holes…because who wants a gigantic hole in their table top?), and the thicker boards, I set aside to be used as the table aprons and supports. The enormous beam on the trailer was to be used as the legs. I laid it all out on the barn floor at my house and cut them down to manageable sizes before I brought them into the shop.
Then, I cleaned the barn wood up so it was ready to use
This stuff was filthy. Covered in dirt, and rusty nails and year and years of….who knows what (?!). Originally, my friends wanted the table to be totally rough (not planed)…so basically, like this.
But after I showed them this picture, I suggested we plane the boards for the top and leave the other boards rough cut (sanded some, but still with saw marks) because underneath all that age is some really beautiful lumber.
So I washed them first with a water hose and a deck brush and let everything dry out a few days. Then, I planed the table top boards with my planer and I’m so glad I did…check out that gorgeousness (apparently that’s a word because spellcheck didn’t correct me hahaha).
Check out the comparison between this brand new piece of oak and these aged ones. The color is so pretty.
PS see that bandage on my thumb? I got my first stitches right after Thanksgiving. It was from a drill bit on a metal lathe at work. It wasn’t even a good story…the machine wasn’t even on. Apparently, I’m just a goober who can’t hold onto a chuck key. I always thought my first stitches would be from fighting off some vicious animal or doing something awesomely heroic. Nope, just a drill bit, not even spinning… Anyway, back to the table.
Then, I assembled the top of the barn wood dining table.
You can see my post here on how I make table tops. For this, I simply squared the edges, and glued the boards together.
Once the glue was dry, I trimmed it to size (again, all the details for how to do this are in this post), then sanded…and sanded….and sanded. I sanded until my boogers (even with a mask on) were brown and my face was covered in dust everywhere except where my glasses and my mask was. Sanding sucks, but it sure makes a nice top. Once it was sanded smooth, I set it aside to build the base.
Next, I built the table base.
Now, the table design is a little different than a standard table. This is very similar in style to the modern dining table I built last year. The legs are flush with the table top. To do this, I built the table base to match the exact dimensions of the table top (measuring from outside of each leg to outside of adjacent legs). You’ll understand once you see the pictures.
The table top (after planing was ⅞″ thick. So I measured the length of my table top, and subtracted the width of BOTH legs and cut a support piece this length. I glued and screwed the supports into the leg making sure it was ⅞″ down from the top of the legs. I just toenailed the screws here.
Then, I did the same for the width of the table, and added these supports as well. Now it was time to cut out the leg notches in the table top. I flipped the top upside down and set the table base upside down on it and lined everything up. I traced around the legs at the corners and used a jig saw to cut along these lines. The picture below is just an example, not the actual table.
Once the top notches were cut, I flipped the table base over, then laid the top on and made sure everything fit.
Lastly, I added the table top supports.
You can see a video of my screwing in the supports on my Facebook and Instagram pages, but in hindsight, I could have done this easily without rolling around on the floor in sawdust if I had planned it out better. Oh well. Everyone needs a little sawdust in their undergarments, right? Give it a try 😉
So I cut 4 pieces of support wood at 45 degree angles on each end to place like shown under the table and around each leg. I simply glued and screwed these in place to help hold the legs in place and just as extra support. I also added two more supports evenly spaced running the length of the table width like shown. Again, gluing and screwing these in place.
Once the supports were all in, I screwed the top in place through these supports. I was worried it wasn’t going to be very sturdy with this type of design and using a thinner top than I usually do on tables, but I was really surprised how strong it was.
Finally, I finished the barn wood dining table
The wood was a little cracked and had some hail holes and knots. I used Gorilla Glue Epoxy to fill these. Did you see the tape on the underside in the picture above? That was where there were nail holes I was filling with epoxy and didn’t want it to drip through.
This was my first experience with epoxy and it was really simple. Just follow the instructions on the back to mix the epoxy, then use the provided stick to “putty over” the holes. Once it was dry, I sanded it smooth and applied several coats of Minwax Semi Gloss Polycrylic to the whole table.
Without making this post even longer, I think it suffices to say that the bench was built exactly the same way, just on a smaller scale 🙂 This post is REALLY long already.
So there you have it…how an old barn was turned into a beautiful DIY barn wood dining table.
Look at that top…WOULD YOU LOOK AT IT?! All the heart eyes!
Building this table from reclaimed barn wood was a little tricky and was quite the learning experience. Reclaimed wood is imperfect and it wasn’t consistent in dimension and shape. That’s why this isn’t a one size fits all type of tutorial. Hopefully this gives you a good overview, though, of how you could do it with your own reclaimed wood.
Side note: this old tobacco barn wood smelled so interesting in my shop. If you’re into those candles that smell like tobacco barns, you should totally just set a block of wood from an old barn around in your house. HEAVEN.
Anyway, I know this post was really long, but if you have any questions that I didn’t cover very well in the post, comment below and I’ll do my best to answer. Also, I would LOVE if you’d pin this for later 🙂
Until next time, happy building! 🙂
Premium Epoxy + Polyurethane finish
This innovative finishing process was created for the purpose of making rough, heavily distressed, hole-rittled, beautiful reclaimed wood into a viable table top option. We first flood the entire table top with a clear, natural epoxy. The epoxy fills in all the cavities that food, dirt, wine and everything that may go across your table will find its way into. Going on 100% with no evaporation or emissions, this finish is extremely durable (making the softwood we use very hard). Since epoxy tends to be very glossy, we then spray finish the whole table with several coats of a durable two-componant urethane.The end result? An incredibly unique table that you can use every day.. spill on, drop food on... and so on..Take a look through these pictures to get a detailed view of what this looks like. Keep in mind, if they look a bit shinier that you would like, that's simply due to camera flashes, light angles, and the fact that most of our pictures are taken at time of delivery. Over time, the shine will decrease with use.
[click on pictures to make large]
Table epoxy barnwood
.The 14 Rules of Epoxy Table Making
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